concept and development of ideas
this process starts with the team meeting to discuss their ideas for the season. many different influential factors can inform and inspire a designer.
we look at :-creative cat walk collections, unusual films,
we look at :-contemporary art, cult magazines.
we look at :-historical, current exhibitions.
we look at :-the street, new ideas of fashion, young designers.
these references are then captured visually and form the basis of each group and its critical points of separation.
for “differentiation” we considered some of the key points to be:-
• historical, smocked embroidery found in russian peasant clothing
• traditional knitwear patterning from the scottish island of fairisle, re-worked in a contemporary way.
• tangled fringed trims found on woollen tunics
• intricately embroidered fabrics, found on wedding wear in pakistan, embellished with mirrored glass.
• Patchwork embroidery from felted wool hangings.
“differentiaion”, fabric development and techniques used
• gauges range from 5 to 12, a feeling for “rustic” qualities
• brushed and boucle yarns in combinations of wool alpaca, mohair and acrylic.
• edge fringes created by leaving float stitches and dropping the edge needle, which can be cut or left looped.
• free-form patchwork. a fabric is knitted, with finished edge, removed from the machine, turned and then used as the starting point for a different design, or fabrics could be linked together.
• needle punch shadow effects are created by punching fibre through from back to front of the fabric
• stitch transfer to create pattern
• swiss darning, in contrast yarns to create fake stitches
• embroidery with coarse counts of knitting yarns
• patterned strapping interlaced through jacquards
• slip stitch jacquard
cut floats used to create pile
the concept for “mineralisation” explained
this process starts with the team meeting to discuss their ideas for the season. many different influential factors can inform and inspire a designer.
we look at :-creative cat walk collections, unusual films,
we look at :-contemporary art, cult magazines, fashion styling.
we look at :-historical, current exhibitions.
we look at :-the street, new ideas of fashion, young designers.
these references are then captured visually and form the basis of each group and its critical points of separation.
for mineralisation we considered some of the key points to be:-
• thom browne‘s recent collections where classic menswear has been radically up-dated
• 20th century formal dress for the european male
• modern classic interpretations for commes des garcons
• graphics inspired by stitching and sewing used formal tailoring
• classic buttons and trims
• formal accessories such as bow tie
• polo Ralph Lauren re-mix of the fairisle sweater
• classic woven fabrics
“mineralisation”, fabric development and techniques explained
• gauges range from 5 -12
• yarns with a conscience such as e-wool
• natural luxury in lustrous silk
• soft handling fine blends of wool and angora
• fabrics that work for men or women
• garments that look good on men or women
• selective use of needles to give spot effects, combined with regular stripes
• purl machine contrast textures
• single jersey with added trims
• single jersey with woven fabrics as added trims
• optical jacquards with a feel of the 60’s
• garment that have trims made in classic woven’s
the concept for “radiation” explained
concept and development of ideas
this process starts with the team meeting to discuss their ideas for the season. many different influential factors can inform and inspire a designer.
we look at :-creative cat walk collections, unusual films,
we look at :-contemporary art, cult magazines.
we look at :-historical, current exhibitions.
we look at :-the street, new ideas of fashion, young designers.
these references are then captured visually and form the basis of each group and its critical points of separation.
for transformation we considered some of the key points to be:-
• korean traditional dress of the 20th century
• 1950’s american and european dress, feminine looks with lady like details
• recent work of christopher kane,
• the work of hussein chalayan
• the pleated fabrics of issey miyake,
• influential film costumes, such as 16th century ruffs found in “elizabeth”
“radiation” fabric development and techniques explained
• gauges range from 12 – 16, with a feeling of “ladylike” qualities
• soft handling luxury yarns, fine merino and cashmere blends
• dry handling high twist polyamide or viscose with high luster
• smocked ripple rib selective held stitch ripples, with contrast stripes
• pleat effects
• stitched ruffles
• exaggerated self stitched ripples
• integrated bows
• added frills and pleats
• permanent pleats and fused pleats
the concept for “transformation” explained
this process starts with the team meeting to discuss their ideas for the season. many different factors can inform and inspire a designer. such as:-
we look at :-creative cat walk collections, unusual films,
we look at :-contemporary art, cult magazines.
we look at :-historical, current exhibitions.
we look at :-the street, new ideas of fashion, young designers.
these references are then captured visually and form the basis of each group and its critical points of separation.
for “radiation” we considered some of the points to be:-
• henna hand decoration
• french lace patterns
• english 19th century crochet work used for bed linen and night wear
• the laser cut work of tord boontje for lights and decorative screens
• drawn thread work embroidery techniques used in fine linen
• 1960’s music festival dresses
• current dresses from the collections of john paul gaultier and roberto cavalli
“transformation”, fabric development and techniques explained
• gauges range from 3 to16, open work and lace type structures are important
• mix of luster and matt yarns
• organic cottons in coarse counts
• synthetic fibres with high performance
• use tape yarns for embroidery on fine gauge fabrics
• use small groups of transferred stitches for contemporary menswear
• a mix of crochet with stitch transfer, contrasting gauges and yarn types
• laser cutting and etching
• two colour lace jacquard
• embroidery stitch embellishment of open knit structures
• drawn thread work techniques
• tuck stitch lace
• printed lace effects
• transfer lace on fine gauge knitwear